A compact loop through Cambodia's three main draws: the capital Phnom Penh with its sobering history, the world wonder of Angkor Wat at Siem Reap, and the developing coastal stretch with beach islands. Cambodia is one of the cheapest countries in Southeast Asia and can be covered quickly, but its depth of history and culture rewards a slower pace. The US dollar is the de facto currency alongside the Cambodian riel, making budgeting straightforward.
Suggested duration: 10-21 days
Best Direction
Phnom Penh → Siem Reap → Coast (Battambang optional) is the standard flow for travellers arriving from Vietnam. If coming from Thailand, reverse it: enter via Siem Reap, head south to the coast, then exit through Phnom Penh into Vietnam.
Best Time of Year
November to February is ideal -- dry, cooler temperatures (25-30C), clear skies for Angkor Wat sunrise photography
March-May is hot season -- 35-40C, uncomfortable for temple exploring but fewer tourists
June-October is rainy season -- afternoon downpours, lush green landscape around the temples, far fewer crowds, and Tonle Sap lake is at its fullest
Stop-by-Stop Breakdown
1. Phnom-Penh (2-3 days)
Arriving from Vietnam: Giant Ibis bus from HCMC, 6-7 hours, $15 USD. The most comfortable and reliable operator
Must-see: Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 prison) and the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek -- emotionally heavy but essential ($3-6 USD entry each). Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda ($10 USD). Riverside promenade and night markets
Food: Central Market food stalls, Amok (fish curry), Lok Lak (stir-fried beef)
2. Phnom-Penh → Siem-Reap
Distance: 315 km
Giant Ibis bus: 6 hours, $15 USD. Wi-Fi, USB charging, snacks. Departs multiple times daily
Cambodia Post VIP Van: 5 hours, $10.50 USD. Toyota HiAce, 13 passengers max. Comfortable and fast
Flight: Cambodia Angkor Air or AirAsia, 45 minutes, from $50-80 USD. Worth it if short on time
Boat (seasonal): Via Tonle Sap lake, 5-6 hours, $35 USD. Scenic but slow and uncomfortable in low-water season (February-June)
Battambang detour: See below
3. Siem-Reap (3-5 days)
Angkor Wat temple complex: The main event. Ticket prices: 1-day pass $37 USD, 3-day pass $62 USD (usable within 10 days), 7-day pass $72 USD (usable within a month)
Getting around temples: Rent a bicycle ($2-3 USD/day) for the Small Circuit, or hire a tuk-tuk driver for the day ($15-20 USD). E-bikes available from $8-12 USD/day
Must-see temples: Angkor Wat (sunrise), Bayon (faces), Ta Prohm (tree roots / Tomb Raider), Banteay Srei (pink sandstone carvings), Preah Khan
Stay: Budget hostels from $4-8 USD/night for a dorm bed
4. Siem-Reap → Battambang (Optional Detour)
Distance: 170 km
Bus: 3-4 hours, $5-8 USD
Boat (seasonal, July-November): 7-8 hours through flooded forest on Tonle Sap, $20 USD. A unique experience but only runs in high-water season
Stay: 1-2 days (Bamboo Train, Phare circus, colonial architecture, Killing Caves at Phnom Sampeau, bat caves at sunset)
5. Siem-Reap or Phnom-Penh → Kampot
From Phnom Penh: Bus, 3-4 hours, $7-10 USD
From Siem Reap: Bus to Phnom Penh then connect, or direct bus (limited), 10-12 hours, $15-20 USD
Stay: 2-3 days (riverside charm, pepper farms, Bokor Hill Station, crab market at Kep -- 30 minutes away, $2 tuk-tuk)
6. Kampot → Sihanoukville-Koh-Rong
Distance: 100 km
Bus: 2 hours, $5-7 USD
Sihanoukville itself has been heavily developed by Chinese investment and is not the backpacker town it once was. Most travellers pass through quickly to the islands
Ferry to Koh Rong / Koh Rong Samloem: Speed boat 45 minutes, $12-15 USD return. Island Speedboat Ferry and Buva Sea are the main operators
Stay on the islands: 2-4 days (white sand beaches, bioluminescent plankton, snorkelling, hammock bars)
7. Return to Phnom-Penh or Exit Cambodia
Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh: Bus, 5-6 hours, $8-12 USD
Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City: Giant Ibis bus, 6-7 hours, $15 USD
Siem Reap to Bangkok: Bus via Poipet border, 8-10 hours, $15-25 USD
Siem Reap to Bangkok flight: 1 hour, from $60-100 USD
Transport Options Compared
Buses
Giant Ibis: The gold standard. Clean, punctual, Wi-Fi, USB charging, snacks, English-speaking staff. Slightly more expensive but worth every cent. Book at giantibis.com
Cambodia Post VIP Van: Government-run, modern Toyota HiAce vans. 13 passengers max. Good value
Mekong Express: Decent mid-range option with meals included on some routes
Capitol Tour / other budget operators: Cheap ($5-8 USD for most routes) but older vehicles, less comfortable, more stops
Booking: Giant Ibis website, BookMeBus.com, 12Go Asia, or at your hostel/guesthouse
Tuk-Tuks
Within cities: 2,000-4,000 riel / $0.50-1 USD for short trips in Phnom Penh
Day hire (Angkor temples): $15-20 USD for a full day
PassApp and Grab both work in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap for metered rides
Flights
Cambodia Angkor Air, AirAsia, and Lanmei Airlines connect Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanoukville
Typical prices: $50-100 USD for domestic flights
Pros: Fast
Cons: Overkill for Cambodia's short distances
Motorbike
Rental: $5-10 USD/day for a semi-automatic
Not allowed in Siem Reap for foreigners on Angkor Wat temple roads (you need a tuk-tuk or bicycle)
Pros: Freedom, cheap
Cons: Road conditions outside cities can be poor (potholes, dust, gravel)
Budget Comparison
Route
Bus
Flight
Phnom Penh → Siem Reap
$10-15 USD
$50-80 USD
Phnom Penh → Kampot
$7-10 USD
N/A
Phnom Penh → Sihanoukville
$8-12 USD
$40-70 USD
Siem Reap → Bangkok
$15-25 USD
$60-100 USD
HCMC → Phnom Penh
$10-15 USD
$50-80 USD
Daily Budget
Category
Cost (USD)
Hostel dorm
$4-8
Street food / local restaurants
$5-10
Transport (local)
$2-5
Beer (draft)
$0.50-1.50
Angkor Wat (3-day pass, amortised)
$21/day
Total (without temples)
$15-30
Tips & Warnings
Angkor Wat sunrise -- arrive by 5:00am for a good spot at the reflection pool. The crowds are intense but the experience is unforgettable. Consider sunset at Pre Rup or Phnom Bakheng as alternatives
Dollar economy -- Cambodia uses USD for almost everything. Change is often given in riel (4,000 riel = $1 USD). ATMs dispense USD. No need to change money at the border
Poipet border scam -- if crossing to/from Thailand at Poipet, ignore all touts and walk directly to the official immigration building. Do not pay anyone claiming to be an "official" outside the actual building
Tuol Sleng and Killing Fields -- emotionally intense visits. Go early, bring water, and allow processing time afterward. Audio guides are excellent ($3-5 USD extra)
Child begging -- do not give money to children near temples. It incentivises keeping children out of school. Support reputable local charities instead
Landmine awareness -- stick to well-trodden paths, especially in rural areas near Battambang and Siem Reap's outer temples. Cambodia still has unexploded ordnance from decades of conflict
Visa on arrival -- $30 USD for a 30-day tourist visa at any land border or airport. Bring a passport photo. The e-visa ($36 USD, available at evisa.gov.kh) saves time at busy crossings
Water -- do not drink tap water. Bottled water is 500-1,000 riel ($0.12-0.25 USD) everywhere
Related Routes
Banana-Pancake-Trail -- the broader SE Asia circuit
Vietnam-North-to-South -- continue into Vietnam from Phnom Penh
Thailand-North-to-South -- connect via Siem Reap to Bangkok